Ginette Olivesi-Lorenzi, as quoted by American culinary writer Coleman Andrews state that, “to read about a country’s cuisine isn’t simply go looking for good things; it is also to better know by means of the recipes, the customs and the richness or poverty of a place, and the spirit of those who inhabit it. It is above all, to participate in the symbolic celebration of the shared past.”
A country’s cuisine presents a unique window to its past – a doorway to explore the lives of the ancestors that inhibited the land in yesteryear; their livelihoods and traditions. For instance, the ancient food preservation methods hide within them, the vast knowledge possessed by a civilised community to ensure food security by preserving the excess; or their wisdom to ensure food security for their people by storing the surplus of their harvest.
Sri Lanka too is home to a rich food culture which traces its roots to the agrarian lifestyle of our ancestors. It is with this vibrant cuisine that the island nation has to come to be known for its hospitality. The first written record of the Island’s cuisine related hospitality can be found in the Mahavamsa (chapter VII), where it is said that the noblewoman Kuweni served prince Vijaya and his group, special rice preparations, sweets made from rice, rice flour, jaggery, honey and local fruits.
According to Chef Dr. Publis Silva, the repertoire of Sri Lankan cuisine begins with the one who is preparing the food – be it to be served to family or guests. The first step begins with a noble thought – “may the food that is prepared now be a medicine to the one who consumes it.” Around 30 of the 42 principal spices and condiments used in our country’s cuisine are ‘osu karaka’ which means that they possess medicinal properties. He teaches us that the kitchen is akin to a ‘osu kutiya’ (a chamber of medicines) and that it should be treated as a sacred sanctum. The individuals who are preparing food should always clean themselves before entering the kitchen – much like going into a religious shrine. “The kitchen should always be treated with respect,” he says.
Chef Publis mentions that food when consumed should satisfy the five senses – vision, hearing, smell, taste and touch. It is when all these senses are satisfied, will a person truly enjoy the food he consumes. He explains the technique behind this by taking ‘mallung’, a Sri Lankan dish consisting of shredded greens that are lightly cooked or sautéed with fresh coconut and spices.
“There is an art even to cutting or chopping vegetables. Greens for a mallung should be cut with similar size and consistency; and the ingredients that are mixed into it should be aromatic. The perfect method to cook mallung is to place it in high heat for 30 seconds. You must be careful not to overcook so as to preserve the natural flavour and the colour of greens,” he says.
Chef Publis says that the secret ingredient of every dish is love. “How do you mix love into the food you make?” he asks. “Here, love means the mental affirmation you make when preparing food, mixing ingredients; the positive affirmation that the food prepared will remedy all ailments of the one who consumes it.”
The food prepared with such kindness, care and attention will certainly satisfy all primary senses of the people who consume those. “The natural colour of the dish will first satisfy a person’s sense of vision, followed by the aroma. He will then feel its texture which will satisfy the sense of touch. Upon eating, he will enjoy the taste and with each bite, the ‘crunch’ of the mallung will satisfy his hearing. This is how enjoying a meal becomes a holistic experience,” he explains.
The food we eat, nourishes and sustains us. It is what contributes to a healthy lifestyle free from ailments; and when it is prepared with so much love, how can one argue that it will not be a remedy? This is simply why Sri Lankan cuisine always takes its connoisseurs on an unforgettable gastronomical journey.
