Food Boats of Yore
With a history that spans more than 2,500 years, our nation is a country abound with a rich history that carries the legacy of our ancestors who were well adept at creating marvels that leaves us still in wonder.
Traversing through the ancient ruins of the Anuradhapura Kingdom, one could only fathom the glory of the kingdom’s yesteryears. Remnants and ruins evidence a civilization that was ahead of its time, with advanced hydraulic systems and engineering marvels that could rival the present times. The first established kingdom in Sri Lanka, the Anuradhapura Kingdom was witness to a great many remarkable events that forever changed our country’s path—the most significant been the arrival of Buddhism. The remains and relics of the many temples, stupas and complexes spanning acres and acres, tells the story of an era governed by religion. History tells that these temple complexes were home to thousands of monks and were equipped with all necessary facilities such as refectories, chapter houses, chambers, sanitary requirements, hospitals and much more.
Refectories or Dhana Shala (Alms Halls) has been the center at many temple complexes. A key feature of the Anuradhapura Kingdom refectories is the Bath Oruwa (Rice Boat/Canoe), often accompanied by the Kanda Oruwa (Curry/Gruel Boat/Canoe). Bath Oruwa as the name implies is deemed as a large chaffing dish that held rice for serving while the Kanda Oruwa is said to have held side dishes/curries. Often times carved out of stone or granite, a few written historical records reveal some information as to how these were used. Two of the largest and well-preserved bath and kanda oru can be found at Mihintale and the Abhayagiri Temple Complex, respectively.
Mihintale Refectory
The origins of Mihintale could be traced to the arrival of Buddhism in Sri Lanka, 3rd Century BC, where Emperor Ashoka’s son, Mahinda Thero first met King Devanampiyatissa. It is said that King Devanampiyatissa built a temple (vihara) and 68 caves for monks or bhikkus at Mihintale. Historical records and inscriptions show that over time, various other kings and regents have added stupas, temples and other buildings to Mihintale, which now spans across a vast area.
One of the most visited areas of Mihintale is the Refectory or the Alms Hall. Monks had gathered to eat communally at this ‘Bhojana Shalawa’ or the Monk’s Refractory. Situated just before the Mada Maluwa, left of the Courtyard, the length and width of the Refectory is 114 feet and 77 feet, respectively. Rectangular in shape, the Refectory is overlaid with granite slabs and is equipped with a central courtyard that opens to the sky. There are two large troughs, deemed as the Bath Oruwa and the Kanda Oruwa, carved and hollowed out of single blocks of stone, and set at right angles to each other. It is surmised that the Bath Oruwa was filled with cooked rice while the Kanda Oruwa was filled with curries donated by locals. Due to the size and extent of the Refectory and the ‘boats’, it is considered that the facility had the capacity to feed more than 1,000 monks. Furthermore, it is believed that the troughs were once inlaid with a layer of metal as well. Part of a pipeline has also been discovered at the Refectory along with water cisterns and covered drains.
The Mihintale Tablets, two inscribed stones, at the entrance of the Dhatu Ghara or the Relic House reveals the rules and regulations that were administered to the monks at Mihintale and also provides information to the many servants who worked at the Refectory. The mentioned servants include the Warden of the Refectory (bath ge ledi) and Twelve Servants who Cooked (Pisana salayin dolos janak) to name a few.
Abhayagiri Temple Complex and Refectory
Considered as the largest among the ruined monasteries in Sri Lanka, the Abhayagiri Temple Complex was established by King Valgamba in the 1st Century BC and was given as an offering to a monk by the name of Mahatissa of Kupikkala as a token of gratitude. According to an unearthed inscription found in 1909 the Temple Complex is said to have sprawled across an area of approximately 200 ha. As time went by the Abhayagriya became the seat of Mahayana Buddhism in the country and in 4th Century BC under the direction of King Mahasena, the temple complex rose to even more prominence.
In 5th Century BC, a travelling Chinese monk by the name Fa Hsien noted down several anecdotes about the Abhayagiriya. In his records, he has mentioned that there were 5,000 monks living at the Abhayagiri Temple Complex at the time, surpassing the Mahavihara.
Only ruins can be found of the Main Refectory or the Alms Hall at Abhayagriya now. During the golden age of the Abhayagirya, this was where the alms were provided to the monks who resided at the monastery. The Refectory is complete with a large rice trough, kitchen, sun-dial (the original is kept at a museum), courtyard, dining area, storerooms, and underground water conduits. Historians and archaeologists have identified four phases of construction of the Main Refectory starting from the 1st Century BC during excavations. The remnants of the Bath Oruwa can be found at the east end of the Main Refectory. A large stone trough carved out of a solid stone slab, it is 19 m long.
Dr Roland Silva has conducted a study to determine the capacity of the Bath Oruwa and thereby the temple complex. In this study, he has taken alms bowls used in ancient times and has filled them with sand and placed them in the Oruwa. He discovered that the Bath Oruwa can hold 5,800 of such bowls, thus determining that the Main Refectory has provided alms to nearly 5,800 monks on a daily basis. The capacity or the volume of this Bath Oruwa is approximately 481,000 cubic inches. The smaller stone boat found almost next to the Bath Oruwa is deemed to be a Kanda Oruwa that may have held curries or side dishes.
Records and ruins uncovered at refectories at Inner City, Jetavanaramaya and Maha Viharaya, also show that Bath Oru were prominent in the Anuradhapura Kingdom due to the vast sizes of the temple complexes built to accommodate thousands of monks at a time that Buddhism was flourishing. After the Anuradhapura Kingdom Bath Oru seemed to have faded into history. Looking at these remnants of a bygone era, one could only imagine the glorious past where sprawling grounds of green, dotted with magnificent structures and monks clad in saffron robes would have lend a charming and soothing vision to the eye…