Story of The Crocodile Gate
Hidden amidst the ever changing landscape of Colombo are remnants of its colourful past. Often in ruins, these historical landmarks are scattered across the metropolis, hiding beneath them many a stories of a bygone era.
Standing in solitude at the intersection of the Main and 4th Cross Streets in Pettah, at the end of Wolvendaal Hill is the age old bell tower of Kayman’s Gate – the only remnant of what is left of this gateway, which was once part of the Colombo Port, which was originally built by the Portuguese.
According to the Kotte Heritage Foundation, “during the Portuguese and Dutch times the Kaymans Gate was an important point of defence and guarded the eastern entry to the Fort of Colombo. This gate led to the outskirts of the city and to Little Pass and Grandpass. The defenses consisted of a barrier running from the lake to the harbour. The gate was made up of huge wooden portals which were fixed to a small draw bridge over a shallow river – called St. John’s River.”
Having gotten its name from the Portuguese, the St. John’s River was in fact a canal which connected the Beira Lake from the south to the outskirts of the Fort from north. Historical narratives state that it was customary to post an armed guard at this gate, and as a tradition, the garrison of the Fort would accompany officers and ambassadors from the Kandyan kingdom with martial music to and fro from the gate, when they paid visits to the Colombo Fort to meet the Governor or the Administrator.
The word Kayman has been derived from the American-Indian word Gayman which refers to alligators. Thus Kayman was used to refer to the crocodiles that infested the St Johns River and the canals, moats and other waters – all of which connected at this spot along the river. During the time when Colombo Fort was occupied by the British, the St John’s River has been filled up and converted to St John’s Street. Thus the gate has also been demolished to make way for the Old Town Hall and the municipal fish and fruit market sites.
The notes of the Kotte Heritage Foundation futher state that Kayman’s Gate, which is located at the eastern entrance to the fort. Today it’s been relegated to its Belfry or the belltower. It is said that the bronze bell at Kayman’s Gate purportedly dates back to the 16th Century, where it originally hung in a Portuguese Church, dedicated to Saint Francis, in the Royal City of Kotte. However, this church too had been demolished by the Dutch when they invaded the maritime provinces of old Ceylon. In 1565 when Kotte was re-occupied by the Dutch, the bell which was found amidst ruins had been relocated to the belfry at Kayman’s Gate.
The bell still bears the inscription in honour of the Mother of God; “AVE GRATIA PLENA DOMINUS TECUM BENEDICTA TU IN MULIERIBUS” which identifies its sacred origin.
The bell tower has had its many uses during the past. It had been used as a curfew bell to mark the closing of the castle gates and as a lights out announcement. After the Fort’s walls were demolished, the belfry had been used to summon devotees for prayer and praise at the Wolvendaal Church – where the tower had become part of the church’s property. The tower is not without a somewhat tainted past as well – as it had also been used as a spot for public executions by hanging.
Today, this belfry – the only remnant of Kayman’s Gate stand in the solitude, in the heart of Pettah, gazing at the busy streets, as it had done, for the past century – having served its due to the Ceylonese.
