Traversing through the ancient pathways, lined with dense forest on either side, I can hardly imagine a monastery, complete with sacred abodes and saffronclad monks.Yet, history tells of a rich monastic complex and a place steeped in legend and lore going as far as millennia. Here I was, wandering through the rough pathways of the Ritigala Monastic Complex, striving to discover a speck of the history shrouded in much myth and mystery… Located 43km from the ancient city of Anuradhapura, and a short drive from Habarana, the Ritigala Mountain Range is a hidden gem with much still left to be uncovered and explored. This ancient Buddhist monastery and mountain range is said to date back to the 1st century BCE and is a testament to the rich history and natural beauty of Sri Lanka. The Ritigala Mountain range consists of seven peaks in total: namely, Kodigalakanda, Unakanda, Na Ulpathkanda, Aushadakanda, Amarpathi Kanda, Andiya Kanda, and Palathurukanda, with Ritigala being the highest, standing tall at 766 meters (2,513 feet) above sea level. It is also the highest mountain in Northern Sri Lanka.
Ritigala’s Unique Climate
Ritigala’s climate exhibits a striking contrast between the summit and the foothills. While the region is typically hot and dry, the summit enjoys cooler temperatures, enveloped in mist and cloud cover during the southwest monsoon resulting in high vapour condensation and moist earth, a stark contrast to the drought-stricken plains below.
Ritigala’s Strict Nature Reserve and Biodiversity
Covering 1,528 hectares (3,780 acres), Ritigala is a strict nature reserve established on November 7, 1941. Managed by the Department of Wildlife and the Forest Department of Sri Lanka, this reserve is rich in endangered bird species. It is particularly renowned for its abundance of medicinal plants. Despite its location in the dry zone, Ritigala’s environmental conditions support a high proportion of endemism. The reserve is said to boast 417 species of flora, including 337 flowering plants, with 5 being endemic and 3 exclusive to Ritigala. Over 30 mammal species, 100 bird and reptile species are said to inhabit the Nature Reserve of Ritigala. Additionally, the reserve hosts approximately 50 species of colourful butterflies, 20 fish species, and 16 snail species.
Historical Significance and the Origin of ‘Ritigala’
Ritigala’s history is rich and steeped in tradition. Known as Arittha Pabbata, in ancient times, it is said that Arittha, the Chief Minister of King Devanampiyatissa, who later became an Arahath, spent his monastic life here around the 3rd century BCE. Ritigala was also home to an enigmatic Buddhist fraternity called Pansukulikas and was accepted as the largest monastery complex at the time. Pansukulikas formed the most ascetic faction of Sri Lanka’s Buddhist order. The architecture of their settlements differs significantly from the island’s ordinary monasteries. There were no stupas, no Buddha images, or Bo-trees inside the monastic complex of Pansukulikas. Instead, Padhanagara meditation platforms were the main edifices. Additionally there were artificial ponds, Ayurvedic hospitals, and plastered meditation paths. A tapestry of theories surrounds the name of Ritigala. Some suggest that Ritigala translates to “the rock as steep as a long pole,” an apt description of its rugged terrain. In some lore it is said that Ritigala draws its name from the majestic Riti tree, an evergreen giant adorning the middle slopes of the forest. The Riti, standing over 40 meters tall, boasts a trunk as straight and sturdy as a pole. The word “Riti” is rooted in the Sinhala language, signifying “pole.
The ancient chronicle, Mahavansa, adds to the mystery by referring to it as “Arittha-gala,” signifying the “dreaded rock,” possibly due to its association with the fearsome Yakkas, the island’s original inhabitants. Interestingly, “Arittha” also carries a paradoxical meaning—it can be interpreted as “safety.” This dual connotation may have arisen from Ritigala’s historical role as a sanctuary, providing refuge for those seeking safety from royal injustices. The story of Prince Pandukabhaya exemplifies this narrative. He camped at Ritigala for seven years during the 4th century BC, amassing an army to wage war against his eight uncles, who thwarted his ascension to the throne. At the mountain’s foot, the decisive battle unfolded, resulting in Pandukabhaya’s victory and the establishment of the renowned royal city of Anuradhapura.
Legends Abound
As you delve more into the ancient lore of Ritigala, you will find that it is brimming with mystical legends, passed down through generations, adding an air of enchantment to the journey. Medicinal Herbs and the Herb of Longevity: One of the enduring mysteries of Ritigala is the belief in powerful medicinal herbs that are found near its crest. Among these botanical wonders is the fabled “Sansevi,” a herb said to possess extraordinary powers of bestowing long life and alleviating all human suffering. Guardians of the Mountain: According to local lore, Ritigala’s flora is safeguarded by the Yakkas, the mountain’s guardian spirits. The term “Yaksa” carries a reverence that connotes superhuman beings, deserving of respect. It is believed that this term, by extension of meaning, may have also been applied to an ancient pre-Buddhistic tribe, the aboriginal inhabitants of Ceylon. Prince Pandukhabaya’s Mythical Allies: Ancient lore reveals that Prince Pandukhabaya’s battles against his eight uncles unfolded at the very base of Ritigala. According to legends the Yakkas supported to the Prince during these tumultuous times. The Duel of Giants: Another intriguing legend recounts a fierce duel between two colossal figures, likely Yakkas, known as Soma and Jayasena. In this clash, Soma met his end while Jayasena’s name etched itself into the lore of Ritigala. The Myth of Hanuman’s Leap: Lord Hanuman’s visit to Lanka was not limited to a single occasion. In one mission, he was dispatched by Lord Rama in search of his beloved consort, Sita. On one such occasion, the rich mythology surrounding Ritigala includes Hanuman using the mountain as a launching pad for his astonishing leap from Lanka to South India. In another instance, it is said that Lord Hanuman, known for his supernatural abilities, once traversed the skies above Ritigala. During his flight, he accidentally dropped a fragment of a Himalayan Mountain he was carrying from India to Lanka. This relic, a piece of the Himalayas, held the key to saving the life of Prince Lakshmana, Lord Rama’s brother, who had been gravely wounded in battle.
Exploring the Ruins of Ritigala
The ruins of Ritigala, covering 24 hectares (60 acres), are nestled within the Ritigala Nature Reserve, spread across 49 ha (120 acres), providing a serene retreat for history, spirituality, and natural beauty enthusiasts. Hidden deep within the reserve, partially restored structures offer a glimpse into the ancient past, including about 70 caves once used by Buddhist monks. Brahmi inscriptions have been found dating the site to the third and second centuries BC. To explore these hidden ruins, you must cross the stream that feeds the bathing pool, accompanied by the soothing sounds of flowing water. However, note that if it rains during the ascent, the stream could transform into a spirited torrent on your return. Archaeological research shows that the monastery complex was constructed by Sena I (831-851 AD). This includes the padhanaghara where meditating bhikkhus dwelled, janthaghara for hot baths, promenades, toilets, and ponds. These well-preserved structures offer insights into the lives of monks who inhabited this space centuries ago.
Asceticism and Minimalism at Ritigala
Ritigala’s architecture tells a story of extreme austerity. Unlike traditional Buddhist temples, the ruins here are devoid of ornamentation. Ascetic monks, known as Pansukulikas, embraced a minimalist lifestyle, adhering to the principles of Dhutanga asceticism, even crafting their robes from shrouds collected from cemeteries. The absence of traditional symbols, such as bodhi trees or stupas, reflects their dedication to simplicity and spiritual purity.
The Reservoir of Kings
As you begin your journey through Ritigala, you will first encounter the remarkable Banda Pokuna, an ancient man-made reservoir that stretches in a polygonal plan, enclosing a circumference of 366 m. This engineering feat is attributed to King Pandukabhaya (437 – 367 BC). The reservoir is believed to have served a ritual bathing purpose, where visitors cleansed themselves before embarking on their spiritual sojourn within the monastery.
A Stone Pathway to the Past
Leaving the Banda Pokuna behind, the journey continues along a 1.5-meter-wide stone footpath that winds through the forest. The awe-inspiring craftsmanship is evident, with interlocking four-sided slabs of hewn stone forming the path’s foundation. Overhanging branches provide shelter and shade, casting a soft yet dappled glow even under the midday sun. Along this path, three large circular platforms invite you to pause and soak in the tranquillity. As you ascend, ancient stone steps rise guiding your way. These steps emerge from various points, leading you deeper into the reserve’s embrace. The stone path winds through lush foliage and gracefully meanders along the mountainside, crossing shallow gullies via narrow stone bridges. At times, it unfurls like a grey measuring tape, a testament to the meticulous craftsmanship of yore.
Ancient Structures Amidst the Foliage
As you traverse this ancient complex, you can witness the marvels accomplished of a bygone era. Much is in ruin, leaving only a fleeting testament to the glory that once was. Within Ritigala’s landscape, you’ll encounter several significant features: Bathing Pond: The partially restored Ghats of the Banda Pokuna, located near the ticket office, served as bathing spots for pilgrims and monks. Reception Hall: This is a group of platforms, likely marking the entrance to the sacred area of the monks. Ayurvedic Hospital: The remains of a building, possibly a therapeutic spa equipped with grindstones for herbal treatments and hot water facilities along with stonecut Ayurvedic oil baths. Meditation Path: Elaborate stone paths designed for walking meditation, fostering concentration and inner peace. Library: The ruins of a structure that may have housed scriptures and ritual objects. Meditation Platforms: Doubleplatform structures called Padhanaghara, scattered across an expansive 120-acre area. These platforms, connected by stone bridges and perfectly aligned east to west, remain shrouded in mystery regarding their precise function. However, they are believed to have served for solitary meditation, congregational gatherings, teachings, and ceremonies. Decorated Urinals: Intriguingly, amidst Ritigala’s austere surroundings, you’ll discover decorated urinal stones. Adorned with artistic reliefs, these stones provide a stark contrast to the overall simplicity of the monastery. While some speculate that they symbolised the ascetics’ rejection of ritualistic excess, others suggest they might have been a whimsical creation by craftsmen, adding a touch of playfulness to the austere environment. Ritigala is a place where nature, history, and mystery converge. Its lush forests, dramatic terrain, and rich heritage make it a must-visit destination for travellers seeking a unique experience in Sri Lanka. Whether you’re drawn to its natural beauty and historical significance, or simply seeking solace, Ritigala offers an unforgettable journey into the heart of this remarkable land.
